How to Install Studs in Your Running Shoes

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CAUTION: Please be warned that NOTHING is great on sheer ice. If you hit a sheet of ice, be careful. But, you’ll be surprised how well this works.

How To Stud Your Running Shoes:

Supplies:
1) Drill with quick attachment (the attachment acts as a mini-socket)
2) 3/8″ #6 hex head sheet metal screws
3) Running Shoes
4) Table and a C clamp is not necessary, but makes the job WAY easier

Hex Head Screw Type

Here’s the kind of sheet metal screw to use…

#6, 3/8″ hex head sheet metal screws

I haven’t found 1/4″ in a hardware store as a standard stock item. So, this is the lightest and smallest I’ve found. Every hardware store will have them.

Drill with Quick Attachment

Any drill will do. I have DeWalt Quick Attachment for my drill, but any will do. The standard Quick attachment acts as the socket and fits #6 hex heads just like a socket and bolt head.

Screw ‘Em In

I usually use a clamp on a table, like a “C” clamp or a quick clamp of some sort to hold your shoe down, as you really need both hands to hold the tiny screw on the end of the quick attachment to get it started.

EXPERT TIP (thanks to Craig Butler): Drop of Gorilla Glue on the tip before screwing them in and the never come out.

Pattern

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Each shoe pattern is different, so you have to get creative, but general placement is 5 in front (horseshoe pattern) and 2-3 in back (triangle pattern). Don’t place any in the middle where the main contact weight of your foot strike will fall. I’m a mid-foot striker and only put 2 in the very back. However, if you are a hard heel striker, I would maybe place 3 in the very back of the heel vs. two for a little more grip. Make sure you check your pattern periodically, as you may loose one sometimes. We run a lot of trail, even in winter in Central Oregon and the rocks will catch and pull the screw out sometimes. But, not a big deal, get home and throw another in with your handy powerdrill.

NOTE: They don’t hurt the shoe, so if you get them in and don’t like one or two, put your drill on reverse and take it out and put it in another spot. Also, after you get one done. Set it next to the 2nd one you’re working on to ensure your placing them in the exact spot as the opposite shoe.

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The above photo shows carbide screws, not aluminum sheet metal screws. They both works but the carbide last longer, albeit more expensive and hard to find (probably have to special order online). Our local running store, FootZone, gets a bunch every year for studding shoes.

Happy winter running. Giddyup!

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