How to Screw Your Shoes

Krissy Moehl and I enjoying Bend’s winter wonderland on the Footzone Noon Run (held every Wednesday, rain, snow, or shine). And yes, we both have studded shoes in this picture.

My buddy Scott Wolfe just emailed me about how to “stud” his shoes, so I thought I’d post a How To. Normally he doesn’t need such a set up in Eugene, but with this recent Arctic surge from the north, Old Man Winter gave them an ice storm and Central Oregon our first dump of snow. So, Wolfman, this post is dedicated to you, buddy.

I just got back from an hour tempo run on hard packed snow with the set-up pictured below. It’s easy and way better than Yak Traks and they work fine on dry pavement if it gets patchy…just like spikes on an asphalt track (for you former track runners out there).

Please be warned that NOTHING is great on sheer ice. If you hit a sheet of ice, be careful. But, you’ll be surprised how well this works. Happy winter running…giddyup!

How To Stud Your Running Shoes:

1) Drill with quick attachment (the attachment acts as a mini-socket)
2) 3/8″ #6 hex head sheet metal screws
3) Running Shoes
4) Table and a C clamp is not necessary, but makes the job WAY easier

Hex Head Screw Type

Here’s the kind of sheet metal screw to use…

#6, 3/8″ hex head

I haven’t found 1/4″ in a hardware store as a standard stock item. So, this is the lightest and smallest I’ve found. Every hardware store will have them.

Drill with Quick Attachment

Any drill will do. I have DeWalt Quick Attachment for my Makita, but any will do. The standard Quick attachment acts as the socket and fits #6 hex heads just like a socket and bolt.

Screw ‘Em In

I usually use a clamp on a table, like a “C” clamp or a quick clamp of some sort to hold your shoe down, as you really need both hands to hold the tiny screw on the end of the quick attachment to get it started.


Here’s the pattern I’ve found to be most minimalist while being still very effective. Place 3 in a triangle in the back, 5 in a horse shoe shape in the front. Screw them into the fatter lugs (if it’s a trail shoe).

Each shoe pattern is different, so you have to get creative, but this is the general placement. Don’t place any in the middle where the main contact weight of your foot strike will fall. I’m a mid-foot striker and only put one in the very back. However, if you are a hard heel striker, I would maybe place 2 in the very back of the heel vs. one for a little more grip. Make sure you check your pattern periodically, as you may loose one sometimes. We run a lot of trail, even in winter in Central Oregon and the rocks will catch and pull the screw out sometimes. But, not a big deal, get home and throw another in.

NOTE: They don’t hurt the shoe, so if you get them in and don’t like one or two, put your drill on reverse and take it out and put it in another spot. Also, after you get one done. Set it next to the 2nd one you’re working on to ensure your placing them in the exact spot as the opposite shoe.


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